August 17, 2005
Hiking in the Cayoosh Mountains
Lost Valley, near Lillooet, is a magical place. Having had the opportunity of visiting the area as a member of one of the July expeditions to the Valley, I had been craving for another chance to visit the area. This past weekend I finally went back to see a different side of these majestic mountains, lakes, and hanging valleys in St’at’imc territory.
We left Vancouver on Friday evening, and planned to make it in as far as we could, camping wherever the night caught up with us. This turned out to be just around a corner on a logging road heading into the Haylmore Valley. It’s a weird experience to sleep on the side of the road where huge trucks could come by at any time (thankfully only one ATV whizzed by at around 2 a.m.!).
After a quick breakfast we drove the rest of the way and started our hike up into the Twin Lakes area, a breathtaking set of alpine lakes leading into the meeting of three valleys: Lost, Haylmore, and Melvin Valleys. This area is truly a hiker’s dream. There are lush meadows full of colorful flowers, mountains sweeping thousands of feet high, and snow-topped peaks in the distance.
On the way to the lakes we passed some berry patches where I had some of the best raspberries I’ve had yet; it was hard to keep walking seeing all those yummy berries calling you to pick them!
After about three hours of solid hiking we reached the first of the Twin Lakes, where we had a relaxing time enjoying the views and cool air gushing from Haylmore creek. Unfortunately, it seemed that only these strong winds were able to keep the swarms of flies away from you. If there was one thing we all could have done away with, it was definitely the swarms of flies of all shapes and sizes.
We then moved on to set up our base camp at the second lake and prepared for the big hike the next day over the pass on the top of the mountain and into Lost Valley. The pass over to Lost Valley is particularly impressive, as you have to drop down over 1,000 feet on a very slippery trail (the so-called Greasy Trail). After completing the hike down you reach the headwaters of Lost Creek, and the valley opens up before you.
After all this hiking in the heat and fighting the flies, we were ready for a swim! Fortunately, there are a few lakes close to the headwaters of the creek, where I almost lost my glasses. In my haste to dive in, I did so with my glasses on, and they were in for a submarine adventure of their own. Had it not been for Geoff’s persistence (Wilderness Committee mapper and research director), I would’ve had to hike out without my glasses; a scary thought in retrospect! It took about 30 minutes of staring at the bottom of the shallow lake for Geoff to find them, and for his girlfriend Beth to finally rescue them.
After heading back into our camp, we had our last dinner by the turquoise-coloured lakes. The next morning we reluctantly packed up and went down to the first lake for a last dive (all glasses stayed outside the lake this time). We then headed down to a camping ground below, where I almost lost my water bottle after slipping on a rock in the creek. Once again, Geoff’s enthusiasm saved the day. I couldn’t believe it when out of the bushes I heard “I see it!”
After this trip I am even more enchanted with the Lost Valley region. Not only does it offer amazing scenery and challenging hikes, but it is also full of history and rich cultural ties to the St’at’imc Nation, which gives the valley a magic and spiritual force that is hard to describe. This is definitely a trip I’ll never forget.
Gil Aguilar, enthusiastic Wilderness Committee volunteer
Elaho Camp-out
Sentinels in the forest is the best way to describe them. Massive columns shooting straight up through the canopy, finally showing branches sometimes not till they’ve risen 100 feet! That’s a Douglas Fir, and to be able to pitch a tent among these 1300 year old giants in an old growth forest and bed down for the night is an unforgettable experience.
If you’re one of the 70 plus campers and hikers who joined us this past B.C. Day long weekend in the Elaho Valley for the kick off of the Wilderness Committees’ 25th Anniversary year, you know what I mean. The weekend was a great celebration of past achievements, on-going projects and to further successes in our future campaigns. For me though the highlight was just being in this incredible old-growth forest which is found at the end of a logging road and the end of another pillaged clear-cut. Since Randy Stoltman brought it to the Committees’ attention, we’ve worked tirelessly to help preserve this irreplaceable wilderness area for future generations.
As part of the advance crew I joined Andy Miller, our resident biologist, and his daughter Roane on Wednesday and from Vancouver we headed to Squamish to fill up with gas, ice cold cappucinos, bug juice and batteries for our flashlights, also being sure to reset our odometer at the Petro-Can so we’d not miss a turn-off farther up the logging road.
The drive up the Squamish River Valley is a passengers dream. We followed the ever-quickening Squamish River which was flanked by a mountain range filled with enormous glacial bowls and ribbons of water cascading through lush forests on their way to the river. Move over Rocky Mountains, we have a contender right here in B.C.
After reaching the confluence of the Elaho and the Squamish rivers we crossed the bridge over the Squamish and continued north with the narrow-channeled Elaho beside us, it’s raging water passing over and around rocks as big as a house. Soon we start to climb leaving the river below us and head into the most difficult part of the journey, not the steep climb into the mountains or the worsening road conditions, but into the devastating clear-cuts. Huge swaths of 1000 year old tree stumps protrude like headstones, a desolate memorial of a once vibrant landscape. It certainly makes you question the wisdom and morals of our elected leaders.
The sight of the Lava Creek bridge is bittersweet, for while the Committee and all others involved in wanting to see the Upper Elaho protected and the end to logging there, the bridge has provided an opportunity for hikers to travel up the Elaho, into the Hundred Lakes Plateau with its’ panoramic views, and descend into Meagher Creek, a 22km distance. That’s one reason to be happy when you get to Lava Creek; the other is that you’ve made it! If your vehicle survives the last few dips in the road you’ll find yourself on a spur road that ends at the Elaho to Meagher trail head, which is exactly where Andy and I decided would be the perfect spot for our gathering.
The next couple of days were to be savoured despite the hard work preparing campsites, digging pit-toilets, and hanging tarps and banners. When the works done and you’re well fed and sitting by the fire with a sky full of stars, you get a neat feeling knowing there’s no one around for almost 100 square kilometres.
August 01, 2005
Big Trees, Blueberries and Flies
Massive mountains, immense glaciers, raging rivers, lava cliffs, deep canyons, endless rainforest, towering ancient trees, dense blueberries, flies, noseeums and mosquitos. Wow. The Upper Elaho Valley truly is an awe inspiring place. Everything is big up there. Beautiful too. I just got back from a week of hiking. Joe and I and four other great volunteers were spending time up there before our upcoming 25th Anniversary Campout. It was an amazing time. At night when I closed my eyes to sleep, all I could see were blueberry bushes. So many blueberries up there, and what a feast we had. In the mornings and evenings we relaxed in camp, ate great food, shared stories and got to know each other. It is such a privilege to be able to spend so many days in an amazing wilderness area and really start to get to know it.
One day, towards the end of our trip up there, we went on a hike up to Eagle Bluffs. It was our longest day, as we kept pushing, on and on, up and up, it always seemed like we were almost there. At one point we broke out of the damp rainforest onto a bouldery talus slope surrounded by big rocky bluffs where the sun beat down on us. We must be almost there, I thought. But after more than an hour, we entered back again into the forest. It was a beautiful grove of lush forest, big trees and a pond; a pocket oasis between the surrounding dry exposed rocky cliffs. It felt like an enchanted forest. It gave me motivation, but boy, soon the blueberries and rhododendron thickened. But finally, after 7pm, we broke out of the dense rainforest onto rock. We made it. What a reward it was at the end of a long day. When we got on top of the rock, we looked north ahead of us. Spreading out around us, was a huge forest! A massive carpet of green stretching far up the huge valley. The largest expanse of undisturbed forest I have ever seen. No signs of clearcuts or roads or any human disturbance or development. What lay before us was an awesome view of the Upper Elaho Valley. The largest remaining 'undeveloped' temperate rainforest valley (including the bottom) in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia! It left me speechless and humbled and happy. Happy that the roads and chainsaws have not left their marks in the valley.
For the past 5 years, Interfor has stopped road building and clearcutting up this magnificent valley. They have respected the wishes of the Squamish Nation (and environmentalists). So far, so good, but the valley is not 'permanently' protected. The upper Elaho Valley is one of 7 Squamish Nation Wild Spirit Places and Sensitive Areas that they have designated in their land use plan. Please check out one of our latest publications 'Wild Spirit Places' on our website for more information. Please read the publication and make sure to write a letter to the premier urging the provincial government to recognize the Squamish Nation's land use plan and Wild Spirit Places (including the Upper Elaho Valley), such that these areas receive some sort of legislated designation protecting them from industrial development. Also be sure to send a copy of your letter to Chief Bill Williams of the Squamish Nation.
Thanks!